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Imagine that you’re up at the North Fork of the American River, perhaps kicking back on the rocky banks as the sun sets and the icy waters froth by — wouldn’t it be so fine to settle in with a nice warm cup of chai?
Chelsea Bruce certainly thinks so. The Culinary Institute of America-trained chef has sipped that sweet, spicy, soothing concoction most of her life. A year ago, she began bottling it as a concentrate and selling it under the North Fork Chai Co. label at pop-ups and other foodie events across Northern California.
Now Bruce, who helmed the kitchen at the Newcastle Produce market deli for a dozen years, is opening her own small café in her hometown of Newcastle, a small town near Auburn. There will be chai, of course, plus baked goods and other treats. And eventually, cooking classes like the ones she once taught at Newcastle Produce, where recipes ranged from scones and cupcakes to a spring carrot soup perfect for packing into a picnic thermos or enjoying at home.
Naturally, we had questions.
Q: Why chai?
A: It’s just so good. The chai recipe has been in my family for about 20 years. It came from my mom’s friend, who was from India, who taught my mom how to make it. And my mom taught me.
I started culinary school in 2007 when I was 19 — I specialized in baking and pastry. But I’d been working on a chai recipe for a long time, even while I was working at the (Newcastle Produce) market. Trying to get it bottled has been difficult, jumping through hoops with the state. There’s no guidebook of how to do it. So I started and stopped probably about three times — had a baby in the meantime. Our product is now at cafes and shops all the way from Sacramento up to Truckee.
Q: So you’re opening your first brick-and-mortar spot?
A: Yes, it should be open sometime in April. It’s a small retail storefront with places to sit inside and a nice patio area. We’ll be highlighting dirty chais (a shot of chai, a shot of espresso and milk), espressos, a lemonade and nitro teas infused with nitrogen, like a cold-brew coffee but with tea. It makes it creamy without adding the dairy.
My brother (Joshua Hendrickson) and I do everything together, the shows and pop-ups. He does the barista work, does beautiful latte art. My family has been in Newcastle since the 1920s. I live in my great aunt’s house; (she) came here from Portugal. My grandfather had his business here, a hobby shop in the same complex (where the chai shop will open), so it’s kind of full circle. It’s really special to have deep roots in Newcastle.
Q: Will you be serving food, too?
A: I’ll be doing things like scones, pasta, jams. This will be stop-in-style, have a bite to eat or give us a call and we’ll have something ready. Breakfast sandwiches. Baguettes. We have cyclists already knocking on the door asking when we’ll open. So it’ll definitely be a cycling destination.
At the (Newcastle Produce) market, I grew the food side of the business and one of biggest things I did there was cooking classes. So I’m hoping to do that and also bring in other people to do classes on floral design or sign painting.
Q: When you were at the market, you specialized in deli/picnic fare. Any suggestions for good picnic spots in South Placer County? Snacks to pack?
A: Well, we have the beautiful North Fork of the American River, of course! But you might also try Griffith Quarry out in Penryn. It’s about two minutes from here. It’s easy access and has some really beautiful spots.
Picnic things I really like? Really good friends of mine have a winery out here, PaZa Winery. Grab a good bottle of wine, pick up some good Cowgirl Creamery cheese and some quince paste and some crackers — it’s simple, but you can’t beat that.
Q: What’s next for you this season?
A: We’ll be setting up at the Auburn Co-Op again. Those are really fun evenings. Local makers, good beer, good food. It’s packed, it’s awesome. Come on up!
If You Go
North Fork Chai Co.: This small craft chai manufacturer just opened a cafe, which is open from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday- Saturday and until 2 p.m. on Sundays at 661 Newcastle Road, Suite B, in Newcastle. The chai concentrate ($14) is also sold at markets across Placer County and online at www.northforkchaico.com.
Newcastle Produce: Pick up picnic provisions at the deli, which is open daily at 9230 Cypress St., Newcastle; https://newcastleproduce.com.
Griffith Quarry Park: This county park, its museum, trails and picnic areas are open to the public daily at 7405 Rock Springs Road, Penryn; www.visitplacer.com/griffith-quarry-park-museum/
PaZa Estate Winery: Open weekends at 3357 Ayres Holmes Road, Auburn; www.pazawines.com.
Auburn Co-Op: This seasonal open-air market will be held from 5 to 9 p.m. on May 16, June 20, July 18, Aug. 15 and Sept. 19 in the heart of Old Town Auburn; https://oldtownauburnca.com/events/auburn-co-op.
