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Until now, powerhouse chefs Laura and Sayat Ozyilmaz have been known for their wildly popular San Francisco pop-up, Istanbul Modern SF, which included epic, 10-course tasting dinners and a “Sultan’s Brunch,” both with thousands of gushing reviews on Feastly.
Now, the married chefs have partnered with co-founder John Litz to open Noosh, a seasonal, fine-casual Eastern Mediterranean restaurant in the heart of Pacific Heights. The cuisine is rooted in Sayat’s Turkish heritage, but extends to bold interpretations of dishes from Greece, Iran, North Africa and Armenia. It’s all done with fresh California ingredients, and it’s dazzling.
Noosh is a no-reservation restaurant, with lines out the door, including on the Wednesday night we had dinner. Here’s our experience:
THE VIBE: Noosh reminds me of the sleeker tavernas and airy eateries of the Greek islands, with abundant natural light, al fresco dining and cozy nooks awash in cerulean blue and white. It’s a vibrant, exciting place to dine; it’s also surprisingly efficient because of the service model. Multiple “ambassadors” wait and check on you throughout your visit, keeping track of your tab using a handheld tablet. Order from anyone at any time. Ready to depart? Anyone can close you out.
THE FOOD: The Ozyilmazes have an almost scholarly grasp of the east, and pay homage to the cuisine by roasting all their own spices, making 12 sauces in-house, and baking fresh pita bread daily. That wood-fired oven is also churning out large, impossibly fluffy and delicious flatbreads ($16 each), which you’ll see on every table.
The menu features small plates ($5-$8), juicy kabobs ($7-$9) and savory spreads (one for $6 or three for $17, with house-baked chubby pita). Sounds like humble food, but make no mistake: The cuisine is bold and chef-driven with attention to detail, which you’d expect given the couple’s previous stints at Michelin-starred Mourad (Sayat) and Saison (Laura).
Among our favorites: Spoon Salad ($12), a clever, winter version of Persian Shirazi salad, which is made with diced tomatoes, cucumbers and onions. This one features tiny diced beets, orange slivers, walnut bits and scallion slivers swimming in pomegranate juice. With the edible flowers, It’s beautiful to look at and even better to eat.
We loved the simplicity of Noosh Halloumi ($12), grilled squares of cheese coated with Szechuan rose honey for complexity. Pork Soujuk ($16), a Turkish flatbread finished with roasted garlic and a sous-vide egg, is so light and soft that it’s perfect out of the fridge the next day, too. We regret trying only one of the five spreads because it was that good. Red Pepper Muhammara ($6) was creamier and more decadent than other versions we’ve had, with a pleasant sweetness.
THE DRINKS: Look for organic and biodynamic California wines alongside those from the ancient winemaking regions of Greece, Morocco and Lebanon. The cocktail program is inventive, and includes drinks like a KooKoo Gimlet ($13), made with California Aqua Vitae, banana, parsley and mastiha, and our choice, Penicillin ($12), featuring single malt whiskies, honey, ginger, lemon and date. Into shrubs? Try house-made Sparkling Cacao Shrub ($4), fruit-driven and slightly nutty.
DON’T MISS: Desserts, like the Sour Cherry Ice Cream Sandwich ($7). The accompanying Urfa chocolate sauce was too mild for us — we wanted thicker, darker chocolate to balance the sour cherry — but the sammie itself is delectable.
PERFECT FOR … Everything, including but not limited to festive work lunches; date nights; affordable, wholesome dinners with the kiddos; appetizers and cocktails; and, coming soon, Sunday meals to conjure dreams of Mykonos.
DETAILS: Currently open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday-Thursday (and until midnight Friday-Saturday) at 2001 Fillmore St., San Francisco; www.nooshsf.com
