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History or theater buff? Both need to eat. And there’s no denying the utter fascination we foodies have with San Francisco’s oldest restaurants, especially when we can dine at one and attend a Tony Award-winning musical from the same era. Now there’s a pairing!
“Hello, Dolly!” — which stars Broadway legend Betty Buckley — opens Feb. 19 at the SHN Golden Gate Theatre in San Francisco. The stage action may be set at the turn of the last century in New York, but we’re seeing the show here, where more than a few restaurants date back to that period.
If you’re lucky enough to have tickets, pair the show with a meal at one of the city’s iconic and oldest restaurants for a taste of life at the turn of the century. And if you’re really craving some nostalgia, meet your dining companion at the city’s oldest surviving monument, Lotta’s Fountain. A gift to the city in 1875, the ornate 24-foot-tall cast-iron fountain at the intersection of Market, Geary and Kearny streets served as a meeting place for survivors to reunite with their loved ones after the 1906 earthquake.
“Hello, Dolly!” runs through March 17. For tickets and information, visit www.shnsf.com.
John’s Grill
If these dark-paneled walls could talk… John’s Grill opened near Union Square in 1908, at a time when the post-earthquake city was rebuilding and establishing itself as a financial center. Photographs of famous patrons, from Derek Jeter to Sophia Loren and President Ronald Reagan, line the walls, and you can still head upstairs to the Maltese Falcon Room for live music nightly. The restaurant is famous for its hearty steaks, large salads and specialties, such as Sam Spade’s Lamb Chops with baked potato and sliced tomatoes.
Details: Open from 11 a.m. Monday-Saturday, and from noon Sundays at 63 Ellis St., San Francisco; www.johnsgrill.com.
Fior d’Italia
This North Beach original has been open since 1886, when Italian immigrant Angelo De Monte began serving hungry fortune hunters at the height of the Gold Rush. Since then, the restaurant has operated out of six different locations — and a post-earthquake tent. Nine years ago, it was purchased by new owners. Long-time executive chef, Milan-born Gianni Audieri and his wife Trudy became the restaurant’s fourth owners in 128 years. Look for Audieri’s signature Northern Italian dishes, including handmade fresh pastas, creamy risottos and veal four ways.
Details: Open from 11:30 a.m. daily at 2237 Mason St., San Francisco; www.fior.com.
Tadich Grill
Seafood aficionados have been flocking to this Financial District restaurant for 166 years. It is believed to be California’s oldest restaurant, and the third oldest continuously-run restaurant in the nation, behind Boston’s Union Oyster House and New Orleans’ Antoine’s Restaurant. Inside, there’s art deco brasswork and milk-glass light fixtures, and signature dishes such as massive crab cakes, aromatic cioppino and fresh catches broiled, steamed or grilled. Expect long waits, whether you’re a tourist, a San Francisco politician or even Dolly Levi. Tadich doesn’t take reservations.
Details: Open from 11 a.m. Monday-Friday and from 11:30 a.m. Saturdays at 240 California St., San Francisco; www.tadichgrill.com.
