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Pesto in a pinch? Use fish sauce instead of grated Parmigiano Reggiano and your pasta will still sing with umami. (Oriana Koren)
Pesto in a pinch? Use fish sauce instead of grated Parmigiano Reggiano and your pasta will still sing with umami. (Oriana Koren)
Jessica yadegaran

Craving pesto but have no hard cheese on hand? Swap it for another umami powerhouse.

At Red Boat Fish Sauce in Hayward, R & D chef Diep Tran uses the premium fish sauce, made from black anchovies and salt, to provide that savory foundation. A combined three cups of herbs — basil and parsley — provide balance and brightness.

The recipe comes from “The Red Boat Fish Sauce Cookbook: Beloved Recipes From the Family Behind the Purest Fish Sauce” (Harvest, HarperCollins, $25), which features both Vietnamese and American dishes, including a dynamite roast chicken.

Walnut Pesto with Shrimp

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 pound peeled and deveined shrimp

4 ounces walnuts

3 garlic cloves

2 teaspoons Red Boat Fish Sauce

Ground black pepper

2 cups basil leaves

1 cup parsley

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 pound spaghetti

DIRECTIONS

Place the salt, baking soda, and 1 quart of water in a medium bowl. Stir to dissolve the salt and baking powder. Add the shrimp and leave them in the brine for 15 minutes, then remove. Blot dry with paper towels. Set aside until needed.

Place the walnuts in a single layer in a skillet. Over a low flame, toast the walnuts for 5 minutes, shaking the pan constantly to avoid burning them. The walnuts are done when they become fragrant. Transfer the walnuts to a plate and set aside to cool.

Once the walnuts are cool enough to handle, roughly chop them and transfer to the bowl of a food processor.

Add the garlic, fish sauce and a pinch of black pepper to the food processor. Pulse the mixture a few times until the walnuts are minced, then add the basil and parsley and pulse two more times. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, then, with the motor running, slowly pour in 1 cup olive oil in a thin stream until the oil is well incorporated and emulsified. Transfer the pesto to a bowl. Set aside.

Cook and drain the spaghetti according to package instructions, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water.

Over high heat, add remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil to a large skillet. Working in batches as necessary to avoid overcrowding the pan, sear the shrimp for 1 minute on each side.

After all the shrimp have been seared, add the pesto, as desired, and spaghetti. Sauté for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the shrimp are just cooked through. If the pasta looks too dry, add reserved pasta water as needed. Serve immediately.

From “The Red Boat Fish Sauce Cookbook” by Cuong Pham, with Tien Nguyen and Diep Tran (Harvest/HarperCollins, $25)