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Classic barbecue sides such as Kevin Bludso's Down Home Mac & Cheese are featured in his new "Bludso's BBQ Cookbook: A Family Affair in Smoke and Soul" (Ten Speed Press). (Reprinted with permission. Photography © 2022 by Eric Wolfinger)
Classic barbecue sides such as Kevin Bludso’s Down Home Mac & Cheese are featured in his new “Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook: A Family Affair in Smoke and Soul” (Ten Speed Press). (Reprinted with permission. Photography © 2022 by Eric Wolfinger)
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Editor’s note: This recipe has been corrected. See below.

Pitmaster Kevin Bludso has a compelling argument for including a recipe for Down-Home Mac & Cheese in his new book, “Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook: A Family Affair in Smoke and Soul,” just out from Ten Speed Press. The volume is part memoir and part cookbook, with how-tos for barbecue classics and sides, and Bludso’s personality pops off the page.

“Who the hell doesn’t like mac and cheese?” he asks. “Especially when it’s done right —Southern style. This mac and cheese is gonna put some goddamn South in your mouth. Whoever makes this on a Wednesday night, you’re gonna swear you’re having Sunday dinner with the pastor in the house.”

The key to a great mac? Cheese is important, he says, but don’t neglect this step: “Please, please season your noodles after you boil them.”

Down-Home Mac & Cheese

Serves 6 to 8

INGREDIENTS

Kosher salt

¾ cup unsalted butter, plus 3 tablespoons, divided use

5 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons ground black pepper, plus 1½ tablespoons, divided use

2 teaspoons garlic salt, plus 1½ tablespoons, divided use

½ teaspoon mustard powder

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1½ cups whole milk

½ to ¾ cup half-and-half

2¼ cups shredded extra-sharp cheddar cheese

2 cups shredded medium-sharp cheddar cheese, divided use

1½ cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese, divided use

1 pound small elbow macaroni

DIRECTIONS

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Lightly coat a 9- by 13-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray.

Fill a medium pot with water, bring to a boil over high heat and add a pinch of salt.

In a second medium pot over medium-low heat, melt the ¾ cup butter. Add the flour, 2 teaspoons black pepper, 2 teaspoons garlic salt, mustard powder, and cayenne and cook, whisking constantly, until all the ingredients are incorporated, and the flour no longer tastes floury, about 2 minutes. Whisking constantly, very slowly drizzle in the milk and ½ cup of the half-and-half, continuing to whisk until the liquid is fully incorporated and the mixture begins to bubble gently.

Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture has thickened just enough to fully coat the back of a spoon, about 4 minutes. (Be very careful not to scorch the milk or the dish will have a bitter, burned flavor.) Remove from the heat; add all the extra-sharp cheddar, 1¼ cups of the medium cheddar and ½ cup of the Monterey Jack, and stir until the cheeses have melted. If the sauce is too thick, add more of the half-and-half, as needed.

Meanwhile, add the macaroni to the boiling water and cook until al dente, about 1 minute less than the package-recommended cooking time. Drain the macaroni and transfer to a large bowl. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons butter and 1½ tablespoons each black pepper and garlic salt and mix well. Add the cheese sauce to the seasoned macaroni and mix thoroughly. Transfer the macaroni mixture to the prepared baking dish and level the surface. Sprinkle evenly with the remaining ¾ cup medium cheddar and 1 cup Monterey Jack.

Bake until the sauce is bubbling and the top is golden brown, about 15 minutes. Serve hot or warm. Leftover mac and cheese will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days

— Reprinted with permission from “Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook: A Family Affair in Smoke and Soul.” Copyright © 2022 by Kevin Bludso. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.

Note: This cookbook recipe has been corrected. Add 1/2 cup half-and-half as specified. If the finished cheese sauce seems too thick, slowly add up to 1/4 cup more half-and-half to reach desired consistency.