San Francisco chef Parke Ulrich knows what it means to lead a team — not of running backs and receivers, but pastry chefs and line cooks. Their version of victory? Delicious dishes, with an emphasis on sustainable seafood and local produce, served at Ulrich’s Waterbar, EPIC Steak and Mersea on Treasure Island. We recently spoke with the chef about serving the Bay Area sports scene, plus what to eat while watching the big game.
Q First things first: Are you a football fan?
A I’m a Philadelphia Eagles fan. That’s where I grew up. And I’m a 49ers fan — that’s what my son is now. We’ve gone to many games together.
Q You were involved with Taste of the NFL 2020 — a culinary event at the Super Bowl that raises money to combat hunger — as the 49ers’ representative. How else are your restaurants involved in the Bay Area sports scene?
A Taste of the NFL was an incredible experience. You’re dealing with Hall of Fame players and All Stars from all over the country, trying to represent your team and city with regional cuisine. The camaraderie between chefs is very fun. The year we were in Miami, we served Dungeness crab fried rice.
We’re very involved, both EPIC Steak and Waterbar, with sports figures. That’s how we got involved with Taste of the NFL, fostering relationships with coaches, front office personnel and players. EPIC hosted the Toronto Raptors and the L.A. Lakers a few times for parties. We did a lot when the Super Bowl was here. The U.S. Women’s Open was just a few months ago — there were lots of golfers in town. Back in 2013, we were the home base of hospitality for Team New Zealand during the America’s Cup. We’ve had some Formula One drivers.
Everyone is always a little celebrity struck when you have these athletes in. The cooks are excited to tell their friends: “I cooked for this person!” Every year the pastry chefs at both restaurants will create gingerbread houses of different San Francisco landmarks. One year we did what is now Oracle Park.
As a restaurant, we’re a team. We use sports references to make analogies to what we do. Working together, helping each other out — realizing that everybody is trying to do their best, but their best is different everyday.
Q Say I were to come to a Sunday tailgate or game day party at your house. It’s fall in the Bay Area. What kinds of game-watching fare might you serve that draws on what’s in season here?
A Here, it’s our Indian summer, the best time of year, so it may still be tomato salads and corn on the cob into October. After that, you’re switching over to feel-good winter warmth. Pumpkins and hard squashes are great. So are Brussels sprouts and cauliflower. I love vegetable dips with chimichurri or different aiolis.
With game watching, it’s usually a crowd, and you’re standing up and sitting down a lot — so it’s best to do lots of little bites instead of a formal meal. Upscale potato skins are a favorite of mine — you can fill them with anything, including crab. I’ve never met a wing I didn’t like, but I’m not going to fry wings at my house because of the mess that it makes.
Q Ways to incorporate local seafood?
A Chowder can be made out of anything: People always think of clams, but it can be crab or salmon. Chowder just means bacon, potatoes and for me, always cream — New England style as opposed to a red Manhattan style — with chunks of fish or shrimp.
You can also make smoked salmon dip to scoop with chips or pitas. And ceviches or tartares are always fun.
Q For dessert?
A I love ice cream sandwiches. You can make your own smaller cookies. Soften some ice cream, scoop, press and put them back in the freezer. Or sundae bars: Lay the ice cream out with lots of different toppings.
Apples are in season, and apple crisp is easy to make — sugar, flour, apples. It can be made ahead of time, then slightly warmed up.
Q Favorite stadium foods at Levi’s?
A My son loves the garlic fries. For me, it’s soft pretzels
Details: Find Waterbar at 399 The Embarcadero in San Francisco, www.waterbarsf.com, and sister restaurant Epic Steak at 369 The Embarcadero, www.epicsteak.com. Treasure Island’s Mersea is at 699 Avenue of the Palms; www.mersea.restaurant.
