When former Bon Appétit senior food editor and New York Times contributor Rick Martinez headed to Mexico in 2019, he intended to research a new cookbook. But by the time the pandemic struck, Martinez had fallen in love with the country — it’s his home now. And its culinary splendors are the focus of his just-published cookbook, “Mi Cocina: Recipes and Rapture from My Kitchen in Mexico” (Clarkson Potter, $35).
Among the book’s 100 recipes from seven different regions is this take on esquites, butter-roasted sweet corn with chiles.
“Esquites exist in every part of México, but there was one town that seemed to have not only the most esquites stands, but also the biggest variety of flavors and toppings,” Martinez says in the book.
Each of those vendors in Bernal, in the state of Querétaro, makes this classic corn dish his or her own with a custom mix of vegetables, chiles and seasonings.
“Think of my recipe as your base, Martinez says, “to which you can add tomatoes or tomatillos for color and tang, switch out the chile de árbol for your favorite chile, add meat or keep it plant-based.”
ESQUITES
Butter-roasted fresh corn with poblano and chile de árbol
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium chile poblano, stemmed, seeded and chopped
¼ medium white onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
4 chiles de árbol, stems and seeds intact (it won’t be too hot, I promise)
4 cups fresh corn kernels (4 large ears)
3 fresh epazote sprigs or a combination of fresh parsley, oregano and/or mint sprigs
1¼ teaspoons Morton kosher salt
1/3 cup crema, crème fraîche, or sour cream
1/3 cup queso fresco or Cotija, crumbled
To serve: Mayonnaise, crushed chiles de árbol, lime wedges, chopped cilantro
DIRECTIONS
In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Cook the chile poblano, onion, garlic and chiles de árbol, tossing occasionally, until the onion is tender and just beginning to brown, for 6 to 8 minutes.
Add the corn, epazote and salt and cook, tossing occasionally, until the corn is cooked through and just beginning to brown, for 6 to 8 minutes.
Serve the esquites warm with a drizzle of crema and a sprinkle of queso fresco and other desired toppings.
— Reprinted with permission from “Mi Cocina: Recipes and Rapture from My Kitchen in Mexico” by Rick Martínez, copyright© 2022. Published by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of Penguin Random House.
