The first brisket Matt Horn ever made was untrimmed and cooked too hot and too fast.
But Horn, now the acclaimed chef-owner of Oakland’s Horn Barbecue, was determined to get the tough, fibrous cut right. And more importantly, to put his West Coast stamp on what is widely considered the ultimate meat for serious smoke enthusiasts.
Here is that OG recipe, which calls for trimming the fat to a 1/4-inch thickness and a slow, low cook. Together, they yield the succulent texture, unforgettable flavor and smoky crust that has earned Horn so many accolades, including a James Beard finalist nod for Best New Restaurant of 2022.
That recipe and many other Horn Barbecue menu favorites are featured in his new cookbook, “Horn Barbecue: Recipes and Techniques from a Master of the Art of BBQ” (Harvard Common Press, $30).”
Horn Brisket
Yields 10 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 (12- to 14-pound) whole packer brisket
5 tablespoons coarse black pepper
2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt
2 tablespoons onion powder (optional)
Mustard or olive oil, for the meat
DIRECTIONS
Heat the smoker to 265 degrees. I use oak for this cook, but you can use whatever hardwood you can get your hands on.
Place the brisket on a work surface so the fatty side is underneath. Trim away any silver skin or excess fat from the brisket and flip the brisket over, fat side facing up. Ideally, you want to keep about ¼-inch layer of fat all over the brisket to act as a protective barrier during the long cook.
In a small bowl, stir together the pepper, salt and onion powder (if using). Rub the brisket with mustard or olive oil and apply the seasoning evenly over all sides of the brisket.
Place the brisket in the smoker with the point side (thicker side) facing the fire box. Close the lid and don’t open it for 6 to 8 hours, or until the internal temperature reaches 165 degrees.
Spread unwaxed butcher’s paper on your work surface, remove the brisket from the smoker and place it in the middle of the paper. Wrap the brisket until it is completely covered and fold the paper over twice, with the brisket ending right-side up (the side with the fat cap). Place the wrapped brisket back in the smoker, right-side up, and do not remove it until the brisket reaches an internal temperature of 203 degrees. The time to achieve this temperature will vary. Pay attention to the feel of the wrapped brisket. As it begins to soften, begin probing the brisket to get an idea of its temperature.
Let the wrapped brisket rest, wrapped, for 1 hour before unwrapping it to slice and serve.
— From Matt Horn’s “Horn Barbecue: Recipes and Techniques from a Master of the Art of BBQ” (Harvard Common Press; $30)
