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Nestled among thick forests and brimming with Wild West charm, the small towns tucked on the eastern side of Oregon’s Cascade Mountains share a certain timelessness. It could be the 19th century or the 21st in Sisters, for example, which sits against forested wilderness, surrounded by eight awe-inspiring volcanic peaks.
The Metolius River rushes between leafy banks near town. Hiking trails wind up into the mountains. Cyclists astride titanium mountain bikes pedal furiously past, bound for the scenic designated bikeway that runs from Sisters to the otherworldly Smith Rock. And in town, you’ll find third-wave coffee houses, gluten-free bakeries and a distillery, whose tasting room sign promises “Really, really ridiculously good vodka.” We haven’t even mentioned the hops spa, yet.
This town may be small, but there’s enough to do here to fill a week or more, whether you’re traveling as a duo or vacationing with grandparents and tots. Here are seven great ways to sip, nosh and play in the great outdoors
1 DRINK: Latte sips, marionberry tarts
Start your mornings with a stroll to the rustic-chic mountain cabin that houses Sisters Coffee, home of house-roasted coffee, marionberry pop tarts ($4) and breakfast quesadillas ($8) that immediately supplanted avocado toast as our morning meal of choice.
A recent renovation has turned this family-owned roastery and cafe into a spot to linger for hours. Sip a latte or a cup of Metolius tea on the porch and note the charming details, including coffeehouse doors where espresso-machine parts — porta-filters, if you’re channeling your inner barista — serve as door handles. On chilly mornings, a fire crackles in the big stone fireplace inside. Edison lights dangle from wagon-wheel light fixtures, and a nook upstairs holds retro school desks, crayons and books for the younger set.
Details: Sisters Coffee is open daily at 273 W. Hood Ave., Sisters; www.sisterscoffee.com. Find Angeline’s Bakery and Cafe, which specializes in vegan, gluten-free and raw options, at 121 W. Main St.; http://angelinesbakery.com/.
2 EAT: Picnic fare
Forest trails, riverbank paths and waterfalls await just outside town. But first, grab sandwiches for later at Sisters Meat & Smokehouse, where they cure and smoke their own meats, and the sammies are thick with cotto salami, smoked turkey and more. Traveling with kids? They do PBJs, too. (And if you’re Airbnb-ing it or your vacation rental at, say, Black Butte Ranch has a kitchen, check out the barbecue-ready fare in the meat case, as well as the Sisters Farmers Market.)
Details: Sisters Meat is open daily at 110 S. Spruce; www.sistersmeat.com. The farmers market runs from 2 to 5:30 p.m. on Fridays at Fir Street Park, June through September; sistersfarmersmarket.com.
3 PLAY: Waterfall hikes
Miles of trails wind their way through the surrounding forests, but if it’s waterfalls you’re after, head for Koosah and Sahalie Falls along the wild and scenic McKenzie River off Highway 126. Parking for Sahalie, a Chinook word which means “heaven,” is just steps from the waterfall viewing platform, where you can see the dramatic falls spilling 100 feet over a lava outcropping. An easy, well-maintained loop trail of just over two miles runs between Sahalie and the 70-foot Koosah or “sky” falls. (There’s parking there, too.) Looking for a picnic table? Head for the Ice Cap day-use area near the Carmen Reservoir.
Details: Find maps and details for these and other Willamette National Forest sites at the US Forest Service website, www.fs.usda.gov/willamette.
4 PLAY: Cowboy dreams and trail rides
This is cowboy country, from the Sisters Rodeo in June to the horse stables, trail rides and pack trips at Black Butte Ranch for little buckaroos and grown-ups alike. An intermediate “Hole in the Wall Gang” ride ($70), for example, takes you on a 7-mile trot along manzanita-lined trails, across Indian Ford Creek and around Glaze Meadow to catch spectacular mountain views.
You can’t take the horses home with you, of course, but you can take some of that vibe home with a stop at Open Range, a home boutique with everything from mountain lodge accessories to Western-themed yard art, like the sleek, rusted metal horses that gallop across the sidewalk in front of the store.
Details: Black Butte Stables offers trail rides ($20-$225) and overnight backcountry adventures; http://blackbuttestables.com. Open Range is open daily at 230 W. Cascade; www.openrangeco.com. The Sisters Rodeo will be June 8-10, www.sistersrodeo.com.
5 EAT & DRINK: Hoodoo Voodoo
Every town in this part of Oregon boasts at least one brewery and Sisters is no exception. You’ll find Three Creeks Brewing — and its Hoodoo Voodoo IPA and Knotty Blonde — tucked next to the FivePine Lodge on your way into town. Sample half a dozen beers with a six-shooter sampler ($10) or go booze-less with a rosy marionberry lemonade. Hungry? The brewpub offers pizzas, sandwiches and six burgers, including an Outlaw Barbecue Burger ($13) topped with Tillamook Pepper Jack Cheese, Hoodoo Voodoo IPA barbecue sauce and, of course, bacon.
Psst, that adorable red barn on the other side of the parking lot is the Sisters Movie House, a four-screen, first-run movie theater that delivers burgers and beer right to your seat.
Details: Open daily at 721 Desperado Court; www.threecreeksbrewing.com. Find the movie listings for Sisters Movie House, 720 Desperado Court, at www.sistersmoviehouse.com.
6 DRINK: Marionberry-infused sips
Broken Top bourbon, South Sister gin, North Sister vodka — the brother-sister owned Cascade Street Distillery pays homage to its landscape in its smooth spirits, named after nearby volcanic mountain peaks, and its vibrant infused vodkas. Stop by the tasting room to sample a flight ($10) or a mini-cocktail ($5).
Don’t miss the small-batch South Sister gin, made with the juniper berries, desert sage and ponderosa pine pods of Oregon’s high desert, much as Alameda’s St. George Spirits infuses its Terroir gin with the flavors of Mount Tam. And check out the distillery’s infused line of Wild Roots vodkas, including a marionberry version that turns Oregon’s state berry into a vivid, not too sweet spirit.
Details: The distillery tasting room is open Tuesday-Sunday at 261 W. Cascade Ave., cascadestreetdistillery.com. If you dine at Sisters’ The Porch (243 Elm St.; www.theporch-sisters.com), try a Spiked Pear cocktail, made with North Sister vodka, Wild Roots pear-infused vodka and pineapple juice. Headed south to Sunriver? Carson’s American Kitchen offers a Cranberry-Apple Mule made with Wild Roots’ apple-cinnamon vodka, cranberry and ginger beer.
7 Westworld views
Whether you join the titanium-bicycled athletes or simply drive the 30 miles to Smith Rock, this extraordinary state park offers something for every age and every level of daring. Its winding river and dramatic, jagged rocks — all that remain from a dramatic volcanic collapse 30 million years ago — evoke the rugged landscapes of HBO’s “Westworld.” It’s a breathtaking place, whether you’re a rock climber, a cyclist or a family of shutterbugs.
The top trails, near the parking lots, are flat and easily accessible. The trails down to the bottom of the deep river canyon and then up to its stratospheric heights are for more intrepid hikers. There are several thousand climbs in the park, including more than a thousand bolted routes. And up near the picnic tables, you’ll find a kids’ climbing wall, so even the youngest tots can clamber safely.
And when you’re done with all that outdoor wonder and need a spot to soak those aching muscles, Sisters has two hot spots for that: Hop in the Spa offers hops hydrotherapy — deep soaking tubs filled with essential oils and hops-infused water — and massages. And the Japanese-inspired Shibui offers massages, Ayurvedic hot oil treatments and other spa treatments at the FivePines resort.
Details: Smith Rock State Park is in Terrebonne. Day-use parking permit is $5 per car. oregonstateparks.org. Hop in the Spa is at 371 W Cascade Ave., Sisters; www.hopinthespa.com. Find Shibui at 720 Buckaroo Trail, Sisters; www.shibuispa.com.
