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Ever longed for a fast-casual Chez Panisse? Fava could be it. The tiny North Berkeley lunch counter opened last August in the former Juice Bar Collective space, which shuttered six months earlier after 42 years on Vine Street. The food — herb-filled salads, flatbread sandwiches, vegan soups — is fresh and healthful, and features just enough meat to draw loyal omnivores.
The lunch-only Fava specializes in seasonal ingredients and global flavors. The back story is simple: Chef-owners Sylvie Osborne-Calierno and Jeremy Scheiblauer met 12 years ago while working at Chez Panisse. After pursuing other adventures — Sylvie went to Spain and opened a restaurant called Toto, Jeremy worked as executive chef at San Francisco’s Heyday before returning to Chez Panisse — they joined forces and Fava was born.
Here’s our experience during a busy Friday lunch:
THE VIBE: Gourmet hippie. The pint-sized eatery is narrow and has no indoor seating, so the mix of clientele — business types, tot-toting moms, the to-go crowd — place their orders at the counter and wait outside. You can try to grab one of the three patio tables or just perch on the sidewalk like everyone else. While you are inside, briefly, you’ll notice the kitchen’s shelves stacked high with fresh produce and a tray of chewy sesame chocolate chip cookies on the counter. They’re great.
THE FOOD: Three salads ($13 each), two sandwiches ($14-$15), two soups ($6-$8) and a few sides, like Roasted Sweet Potatoes ($6) that get their divine flavor from chiles, lime and cilantro. The Braised Lamb flatbread sandwich ($15) was our favorite: Messy in that deliciously drippy way, with red cabbage slaw, yogurt sauce and a ton of fresh dill and mint. They only make 50 of these a day so “get ’em while the gettin’ is good,” as the sign on the door says.
Fava offers one special a day and on our visit, it was a home run: A piece of Mount Lassen steelhead salmon, poached or grilled and served on a bed of bulgur and chopped beet greens with an almond salsa topper ($15). Next time we’ll get the Beets with Warm Lentils ($13), which comes with shredded carrots, a soft-boiled egg and herbs. Orders of this were flying out at rapid speed.
DON’T MISS: Drinks. As an homage to Berkeley Juice Collective, which Osborne-Calierno often visited as a kid growing up in Berkeley, Fava offers a few house-pressed juices, including a Kesar Mango Lassi ($4) and a bright, tart Greens Cucumber & Lime ($4). There’s also a hot ginger tea that would go well with that sesame-topped cookie.
PERFECT FOR … Casual lunches, falafel cravings and turmeric cider-vinegar shots.
DETAILS: Open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday at 2114 Vine St., Berkeley; www.favaonvine.com.