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The Salt, an Indian-inspired fine dining restaurant and bar in San Ramon, opened quietly this summer in a strip mall next to an Indian grocer off Bollinger Canyon Road. It’s a hidden gem, the kind of restaurant that so nails it in terms of food and service, you find yourself debating whether to keep it a secret or tell everyone you know.
Owner Srikanth Yendluri’s vision of innovative Cal-Indian is not new — the trend is on fire across the bay at San Francisco’s Rooh, August 1 Five and two-Michelin-starred Campton Place — but tamarind-laced pulled pork and pickled-and-fried okra with curry remoulade is certainly a first for the Tri-Valley. The Salt sources its produce locally, from the San Ramon farmers market to farms in Napa and Sonoma Valleys. Most of the proteins are imported from Japan.
Add in ample seating and a skilled up-and-coming chef, Jerrod Doss, former chef de cuisine at August 1 Five, and you can see why The Salt may not stay hidden for long. We popped in for dinner on a Sunday night. Here’s how it went:
THE VIBE: Quiet, even reserved. The staff is focused on delivering a high level of service. It’s obvious in the way they not only answer questions but also ask them, for instance, to help you order the right cocktail (Guava Mint Fizz) or dish to share (Pulled Pork). Our server nailed both.
A note on noise: Because music is played at a low volume and there are no trendy metal chairs, concrete floors or other trappings of modern restaurant decor, my assumption is that The Salt will be the kind of restaurant where you can actually have a conversation, even at full capacity. The small bar, with its posh white leather chairs and lounge vibe, could get rowdy.
THE FOOD: The focus is on American and other classic comfort dishes made with Indian spices and flavors. The menu is divided into First ($7-$12), Share ($14-$16), Feature ($16-$30), Sides ($2-$8) and Finish, or dessert, ($9-$12).
Doss staged at Manresa in Los Gatos, worked as chef de partie at The French Laundry in Napa and also as executive chef at Shinmai, a modern izakaya in Uptown Oakland, so he’s schooled in technique. For example, a shared Cauliflower dish ($14), is presented three ways: Roasted turmeric-gold florets, spicy and pickled slivers with hints of fenugreek, and pureed with chickpeas into a smooth hummus, along with a schmear of umami sauce and a sprinkle of shiso.
Lamb Ribs ($30) are also a home-run: Indian-spiced and served alongside a bright mint chutney. But it’s that Pulled Pork ($14) that got a few moans out of us. Doss braises pork shoulder in an Indian-inspired rub, strains out the braising liquid and mirepoix before blending it with a housemade, tamarind-infused barbecue sauce. It’s stuffed into warm house-baked naan, sprinkled with pickled cabbage and served as tacos. Super satisfying.
DON’T MISS: The drinks. Elena Tenaco’s beverage program includes housemade sodas ($5), mocktails ($6-$8) and 11 craft cocktails ($13 each), including our fave, the Honey Bear, made with blended Scotch, mezcal, Lillet, lemon and raw honey. Also, stay tuned: Brunch starts in mid-September.
PERFECT FOR: Date night, girls’ night, Indian taco cravings — and cravings for Champagne cocktails and masala-sprinkled French fries with beetroot ketchup — and showing off to your San Francisco friends.
DETAILS: Open 5:30 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday at 500 Bollinger Canyon Way, Suite A1, San Ramon; www.thesaltsanramon.com
