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Tomales Point stands at the northern end of the Point Reyes National Seashore, offering the perfect setting for experiencing the sights and sounds of nature. The blue of the Pacific, as waves crash along the rugged coast and gulls soar overhead. The colorful riot of purple, orange and yellow wildflowers on meadows and hills.
And the stars of the show are the Tule elk. Point Reyes boasts a herd of some 450 bulls, cows and calves that wander freely, calmly posing for photo ops on this sunny weekend.
Though spontaneity has its appeal, exploring this terrain — Pierce Point Ranch, Tomales Point Trail and McClures Beach — is better enjoyed with a game plan. There’s no gas, no water, no food out here. But with a little planning, that’s no problem. You’ll want to decide beforehand how far to venture on the 9.4-mile Tomales Point Trail and still have time for McClures Beach. And you’ll want to start the day with a picnic foraging foray in the small West Marin town of Point Reyes Station, which offers all sorts of delicious possibilities.
On this particular Saturday, I’ve cruised the town’s collection of artisan shops for not just picnic bites, but breakfast fare, too. Bovine Bakery supplies me with an orange chocolate scone, a sesame wheat loaf and peanut butter blondies for my picnic dessert. But their fair trade, organic Thanksgiving Coffee hits the spot right now.
Bread requires cheese. Tomales Bay Foods houses Cowgirl Creamery, whose spring seasonal cheese is dubbed St. Patrick’s, a creamy wheel wrapped in wild nettle leaves. Other picnic picks include a tangy Inverness and the slightly tart, firm Wagon Wheel cheese.
I pick up fresh, local, organic produce at Toby’s Feed Barn, as well as all-important trail munchies, like a spicy roasted corn and sesame honey crunch. The last stop? Heidrun Meadery produces naturally sparkling, varietal honey wines, including a wonderful California orange blossom version.
Then it’s off to Tomales Point Trail, which follows the ridge through the elk reserve all the way to cliff’s edge and Bodega Bay. I’m opting for a subset, a 3-mile hike that begins at the historic Pierce Point Ranch, a dairy farm that dates back to 1858 and was known for its fine butter. The bright white buildings form a perfect contrast to the natural landscape, and interpretive signs describe the doings inside the dairy house, blacksmith shop, schoolhouse and more.
The trail follows the old ranch road before heading out over open grassland dotted with a spectrum of flora that reads like a who’s who in the wildflower world – two-toned California poppies, blue and purple Douglas irises, yellow buttercups and lupine, and pink checkerbloom. Lichen coated outcroppings pop up along the ridge, adding interest to the landscape.
Tule elk graze in groups along the trail, visible at Windy Gap, the 1-mile marker. As the trail ascends, panoramic views unfold on both sides, ocean to the left, Tomales Bay to the right. Elk are often seen at the pond at Lower Pierce Point Ranch, three miles from the trailhead, and the trail continues beyond, although it’s not as well maintained and it’s sandy in places. But I retrace my steps, thinking of a beachside picnic at McClures Beach.
Provisions in hand, I follow the narrow trail to beautiful McClures Beach, in a small cove surrounded by rocky cliffs. It’s low tide so there’s a broad, flat beach to stroll and tide pools to explore. And if I’ve timed it right, I can toast the sunset after dessert.
IF YOU GO
Point Reyes National Seashore: Find maps and more information at www.nps.gov/pore.
Bovine Bakery: Open daily at 6:30 a.m., 7 a.m. on weekends, at 11315 Highway 1, Point Reyes Station; www.bovinebakeryptreyes.com.
Cowgirl Creamery in Tomales Bay Foods: Open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday at 80 Fourth St., Point Reyes Station; www.cowgirlcreamery.com/pt-reyes-shop-creamery.
Toby’s Food Barn: Open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sundays at 11250 Highway 1, Point Reyes Station;; www.tobysfeedbarn.com.
Heidrun Meadery: Open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. weekdays, until 5 p.m. weekends at 11925 Highway 1, Point Reyes Station;; www.heidrunmeadery.com.