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  • Start your meal at Torsap Thai Kitchen, a new restaurant...

    Start your meal at Torsap Thai Kitchen, a new restaurant in Walnut Creek from the chef behind San Francisco's Osha Thai, with Beef Wasabi Rolls, premium flank streak rolled around crunchy carrot and celery in a spicy minced watercress dressing. (Jessica Yadegaran/Bay Area News Group)

  • Inside, the restaurant looks the same as it did during...

    Inside, the restaurant looks the same as it did during the Sunol Ridge days, with basket lanterns, and TV sets in the bar. (Doug Duran/Bay Area News Group)

  • Torsap Thai Kitchen is located in the former Sunol Ridge...

    Torsap Thai Kitchen is located in the former Sunol Ridge space on Locust Street. Sunol Ridge closed in August 2017 after a three-year run. (Doug Duran/Bay Area News Group)

  • Emperor egg noodles noodles are surrounded by pork four ways:...

    Emperor egg noodles noodles are surrounded by pork four ways: Crispy pork belly, pork ball, Kurobuta pork belly and barbecue pork. The clear, simple broth helps you wash it all down. (Jessica Yadegaran/Bay Area News Group)

  • Torsap Thai's Pumpkin Curry features kabocha squash and Thai basil...

    Torsap Thai's Pumpkin Curry features kabocha squash and Thai basil in red curry with jasmine rice. (Jessica Yadegaran/Bay Area News Group)

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Jessica yadegaran
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After 25 years in San Francisco, building and running the successful Osha Thai restaurants, chef-owner Lalita Souksamlane has brought her cuisine to the East Bay. Torsap Thai Kitchen quietly opened in downtown Walnut Creek on Dec. 19. The restaurant is located in the large corner space on Locust Street formerly occupied by Sunol Ridge, which closed in August 2017 after a three-year run. We stopped by during Torsap Thai’s first weekend of business. Here’s what we saw and tasted.

THE VIBE: It’s a bit quieter inside than Sunol Ridge was, but otherwise the interior is the same. The fabulous basket lanterns still hang overhead in the bar, along with multiple flat-screen TVs. The upper dining room features deep, cozy booths and the urban, metal chairs have been replaced by buttery camel -hued leather chairs. The back dining room now contains a long, dramatic community table reserved for private parties, and the television sets there are set to a crackling, Netflix fireplace.

THE FOOD: Menu highlights are divided into Appetizers ($11-$15), Wok & Grilled ($11-$29), Curries ($13-$20) and Noodle & Rice ($12-$18). You’ll recognize several signature Osha Thai dishes, including Beef Wasabi Rolls ($13), tender, grilled flank steak wrapped around crisp spears of carrot and celery in a spicy watercress and wasabi salsa. It’s a great, palate-waking starter.

Another, the Emperor Noodle Soup ($25), is a build-your-own dish with four types of pork, a boiled egg, bok choy and egg noodles served with a small bowl of simple, soothing broth. On our visit, the broth arrived warm but the other ingredients in the large, stone bowl were cold. Torsap Thai’s star dish, and the one that put Osha Thai on the map, is the Volcanic Beef ($22), wok-tossed flank steak topped with Thai basil, a massive onion ring and “lava” sauce.

PERFECT FOR… Watching the game over bowls of tom kha; feasting on papaya salad or panang beef curry before a movie; or catching up with a friend over Thai tea shaved ice.

DETAILS: Open daily from 11:30 a.m. at 1388 Locust St., Walnut Creek;  http://torsapthaikitchen.com