The freighter couldn’t be that impossibly big. Could it? It must just be my perspective, I thought, sitting out here alone in a kayak in the middle of the water.
As I paddled in to get a closer look at the ship, the Honourable Henry Jackman seemed to grow ever more towering, a floating mountain of metal that, fortunately for me, was docked at the time. I thought about going closer, close enough to touch it, but common sense and sheer intimidation quickly came into play, and I skedaddled, paddled away.
I can only imagine how the fish feel.
I’ve spent my whole life near San Francisco Bay. But the amount of time that I’ve actually spent out on the water has been minimal — a few ferry rides, a dinner cruise or two, a trip to Alcatraz and back in grade school. That’s it.
I like to blame my yacht-less friends, who have been amazingly inconsiderate over the decades and never bought fancy sailboats to take me out on the water.
The real reason, of course, is that I’d never explored some relatively inexpensive ways to explore this area’s most famous feature. Turns out it’s pretty easy to do, especially if you like to paddle.
Several Bay Area outfitters rent kayaks and other H2O-friendly vessels, from San Francisco’s City Kayak to Sausalito’s Sea Trek, Alameda’s Stacked Adventures and more — and many offer not just equipment rentals, but classes and tours as well.
After chatting with California Canoe and Kayak manager Devin Sapp about my experience level, which consists of a handful of ocean, lake and river kayak outings, we hatched plans to embark from the Port of Redwood City. (The company also has locations at Oakland’s Jack London Square and Brooklyn Basin.)
It was the crack of dawn, or the equivalent for this night owl, when — OK, it was 9 a.m. on Earth Day when I donned a lifejacket and boarded a bright red kayak, anxious to see the sights and commune with nature.
Sapp had recommended an even earlier departure to avoid the choppiness and wind that often comes later in the morning and afternoon, but the water was still calm as I began the long paddle northeast, up Redwood Creek and toward the bay through sharply contrasting scenery.
On the left — the south side of Redwood Creek — is beautiful Bair Island, a 3,000-acre marsh whose three islands compose California Department of Fish and Wildlife’s Bair Island Ecological Reserve. It’s filled with wildlife activity, which I hoped to experience later as I paddled into one of the wetland sloughs.
On the right, a long row of huge industrial complexes, including a massive metal recycling plant and a sand and gravel supplier, line the other bank. Those sights aren’t going to make it onto any “explore the Bay Area” postcards, but they’re intriguing visually, especially when juxtaposed with the lovely wetlands.
It was there, on the industrial side, that I encountered the enormous docked freighters, the Honourable HJ among them, resting after a long journey, while goods were loaded and unloaded.
I eventually reached the bay at the promisingly — and aptly — named Corkscrew Slough, which cuts through these islands. This, Sapp promised, is the best place to see wildlife — and it was, with birds everywhere. Using my great expertise in ornithology, I would describe them as “pretty,” “cool” and “just wow.” Truth is, you don’t need to know their names to enjoy the spectacle of birds grooming themselves on shore, diving for unsuspecting fish and soaring overhead. But if you’re a Bay Area birdwatcher, you’ll be in heaven.
The best reason for paddling down twisty Corkscrew Slough, though, is that it’s known as a major hangout for harbor seals, who haul themselves out to sunbathe on the muddy shore. I wasn’t sure I was on the right track, however, as I’d spent quite some time paddling around without seeing any seals.
Thankfully, one of them found me, its head popping part way out of the water and staring at me with piercing eyes. The seal seemed perplexed, as if wondering what in the world this guy in a red kayak was doing invading his private spot.
“Mr. Seal,” I said, making the assumption that it was a male, because his perplexed look so resembled my own frequent expression, “I just wanted to say hi. Now I have, and I can start paddling back.”
The long, slow paddle back to the dock included occasional stops to rest a bit and take in the soothing, peaceful vibes — and wish I’d had the foresight to bring a snack, like a medium pepperoni pizza. Paddling is hungry work. The promise of eateries on shore was both comfort and motivation to paddle faster.
All told, I was out on the water for about three hours, and my arms, which had gone many months since my last, far less physically taxing kayaking trip on Lake Tahoe, felt every minute of this adventure. My shoulders were aching as I retraced my journey, paddling against both the wind and the tide. Although truth be told, it might have been neither …
I’m a rookie, unused to kayaking in the bay. Yet, anyway. After this trip, I intend to become a regular. See you on the water.
IF YOU GO
California Canoe and Kayak: Hourly rental rates run $25 to $60, depending on the type of craft. The company also rents stand-up paddle boards ($25) and offers tours and classes, including an introductory kayaking class ($89 and up).
Hours vary by location and COVID restrictions, but the Port of Redwood City location at 487 Seaport Court is typically open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday. (It’s best to go early in the day, since afternoons can get windy.) Find more details at www.calkayak.com.
Stacked Adventures: This Alameda outfitter offers private tours and rentals of kayaks ($30-$50 per hour), camping and backpacking equipment by appointment only. Home base is at Alameda’s Encinal Boat Ramp at 190 Central Ave., but other drop-off and pick-up locations are available. Find details at www.stackedadventures.com.
Sea Trek: This Sausalito company rents single and double kayaks ($25-$40 per hour), as well as stand-up paddle boards ($25), with reservations available from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday-Tuesday and 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday. (Reservations before 1 p.m. are recommended for first-time paddlers and SUP.) Sea Trek also offers kayak, SUP and yoga SUP classes. You’ll find the outfitter at 2100 Bridgeway near the Bay Model in Sausalito; www.seatrek.com.
City Kayak: San Francisco’s City Kayak offers kayak ($35-$125 per hour) and SUP rentals ($35), classes and special tours, including a South Beach kayak tour and a McCovey Cove Evening Experience on game nights. Normally open for check-in from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Friday-Monday at Pier 40; citykayak.com.
