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For most of us Bay Area denizens, getting our winter sports freak on means heading east to Dodge Ridge, Pinecrest or Bear Valley, or over the pass to the Lake Tahoe wonderlands.
But what if I told you to head north about an hour further than Tahoe? Mount Shasta, a huge, dormant strato-volcano, is the jewel atop the crown of California, dominating the landscape with its staggering snowcap and mysterious, saucer-like lenticular clouds.
The mountain remains sacred to the native peoples here. But one of the local vibes is New Age spirituality, fueled by local crystals and metaphysical supply shops. Legends abound here, too. The most enduring tells the story of the lost continent of Lemuria, whose descendants, the Lemurians, live under the mountain in their crystalline city of Telos. O-kay then … moving on.
It’s an easy straight shot up Highway 5 to Siskiyou County and the towns of Mt. Shasta and McCloud, without a pesky mountain pass to contend with. In Mt. Shasta I found reasonably-priced lodging, a varied restaurant scene (including the original Black Bear Diner!) and a welcoming air about the place. According to local business people, tourism is more the economic focus now, away from what they describe as the “Red Meat (cattle) and Board Feet (lumber)” of past years.
Mt. Shasta Ski Park
You’ll find California’s youngest ski area — Mt. Shasta Ski Park opened in 1985 — about 12 miles from downtown. Nestled on the buttes to the south of the big mountain, the park offers about 1,400 vertical feet of mostly uncrowded skiing and sliding, serviced by three triple chairs, a surface lift and a magic carpet.
The 32 trails translate into about 50 percent intermediate runs and 25 percent each beginner and advanced — a family-friendly ratio. Long-time general manager Richard Coots notes that in addition to fabulous mountain views there are two terrain parks, a tubing park and guided back-country ski tours to his namesake cabin, Coots Roost, on the flank of the volcano.
If you like cross-country skiing, a mile back down the access road is the Mt. Shasta Nordic Center with its 14 miles of machine-groomed trails. All you need is a trail pass. Equipment rentals are also available.
Details: The ski park is scheduled to open Dec. 27. 4500 Ski Park Highway in McCloud; skipark.com. The Nordic center, on Forest Route 31 just off Ski Park Highway, is open Thursdays through Sundays and holidays during the season, which typically runs from mid-December through late March; http://mtshastanordic.org.
Bunny Flat
For a fun-packed winter day, bring your snow toys — I brought snowshoes — and drive the Everitt Memorial Highway up the big mountain to wide-open Bunny Flat, where the plowed road ends in winter. A lot of folks picnic here, take photos of the mountain, build snowmen and sled down the numerous hills. Others stage and begin their backcountry escape away from the crowds.
When I arrived, one adventurer, Gerald Spini, 80, a life-long skier and native of Mt. Shasta, and his dog Bluey, had just finished a five-hour up-and-back run that took them to 10,000 feet of elevation. I opted for a snowshoe hike up the unplowed road, headed for the old Ski Bowl which was retired by a massive avalanche in 1978. Along the way, I took in fine views of Mount Lassen and marveled in the quiet and solitude.
McCloud
In its heyday, the nearby town of McCloud was a booming lumber mill center with trains loaded with wood products going out to the world. With the mill’s demise, the quiet, charming hamlet reinvented itself as a tourist destination.
Built in 1915 to house mill workers, the McCloud Hotel was renovated by the Ogden family, who fell in love with its period charm and saw its potential as a boutique inn. Present owners Cindy Rosmann and Gary Bostwick have carried on the tradition, adding a restaurant, Sage, and turning the adjacent former mill workers’ cafeteria into the Axe & Rose Public House this summer. This dog-friendly hotel is charming, with amenities such as Jacuzzis and soaking tubs and complimentary gourmet breakfast — and no room TVs, so bring a book or browse the hotel library.
The hotel makes a great home base from which to explore the town’s historic district, the McCloud River Mercantile shops, Nordic skiing in town, sledding on Snowman’s Hill on Highway 89 between McCloud and Highway 5 or just strolling the lanes on a snowy evening.
Now, if you want to visit Telos …
Details: Rooms at the McCloud Hotel, which is at 408 Main St. in McCloud, start at $149 per night; https://mccloudhotel.com.