CLICK HERE if you are having trouble viewing these photos on a mobile device
San Jose’s new Meso Modern Mediterranean has just opened, and it’s made us realize that complete as Santana Row’s dining scene may have felt before, there was definitely room for one more hot spot. And this one hails from the Left Bank and LB Steak restaurant family. Here’s what we found on our first visit.
THE VIBE: Ocean hues and vast archways are always transportive. The large, two-room space features a wide bar with beautiful backlit bottles, tile work and sleek, modern touches. A ceiling-high water feature makes a dramatic focal point.
THE FOOD: The Mediterranean menu designed by chef-partner Roland Passot and executive chef Gregory Short (French Laundry, Masa’s) offers a wide array of “Tastes” — starters such as silky hummus ($9) with add-ons like za’atar and chickpeas or crispy mushrooms ($3). You’ll find the requisite Crispy Brussels Sprouts ($12), but here they’re served with charred scallion feta and preserved lemon. A kebab trio ($9-$13) offers beef with green harissa, chicken kufta or fritto misto with lemon-tarragon aioli.
The fattoush salad ($14) is zingy with sumac, a refreshing accompaniment to the rich, dense dips and meats on offer. And the Chickpea Fritter ($12) is actually a huge doughnut-shaped falafel, which makes for a visually fun plateful.
Shareable platters include crisp-skinned Branzino a la Plancha ($41) with spicy zhoug and saffron pilaf. Meso’s Chicken ($39) is a stand-out, a whole bird spiced and roasted to perfection in a special tech-y oven, and served atop housemade laffa flatbread with lightly dressed lettuces and a bowl of red yogurt. The preparation encourages you to dig in and make your own little wraps.
DON’T MISS: The housemade to-die-for pita bread ($2.50 to $3) comes in two variations: blistered and deliciously fried. Save room for the desserts ($10 each) made by pastry chef Eva Wong (French Laundry).
THE DRINKS: The global wine list includes bottles from Bulgaria, Lebanon, Israel, Greece and Slovakia. Six well-crafted, Med-inspired cocktails ($13-$16) include ingredients such as cardamom, mint, pistachios and even hibiscus Athens vermouth. And the three “Spirit free” sips are the opposite of boring, with additions like housemade Hell Water, a hot pepper tincture.
PERFECT FOR: Date night or a night out with friends — or a group gathering, so you can share platters and taste your way through the Meso Tastes.
DETAILS: During the soft opening, Meso’s is open for happy hour (3 to 6 p.m.) and dinner from 5 p.m. daily. Brunch and lunch hours will be added after the restaurant’s grand opening, which is set for December, when the large patio will be ready for prime time. 3060 Olsen Drive #60, San Jose; www.mesorestaurant.com
