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On Feb. 4, a young and talented team from some of the Bay Area’s top bars and restaurants will unveil its first solo project: Viridian, a craft cocktail and dessert bar in Uptown Oakland. Born and raised in Oakland, owners William Tsui (Lazy Bear, Rich Table), Raymond Gee (Hakkasan), Jeremy Chiu (International Smoke, Shinmai) and Alison Kwan (Lazy Bear, Moongate Lounge) have created a moody, cutting-edge slice of downtown nightlife.
Located in the former Plum Bar space on Broadway, Viridian specializes in technique-driven (read: mad scientist) cocktails and elegant yet nostalgic bites inspired by the Asian-American experience. It’s the perfect spot for drinks and dessert after a show at the Paramount. Here’s a taste from our visit during a recent sneak preview:
THE VIBE: Dark and sexy, like a party that’s taken over a record studio after dark. Turns out designer Soon and Soon Studio, led by Anna Lee and Brandon Jew of Michelin-starred Mister Jiu’s, drew inspiration from 1994 art house film “Chungking Express,” as well as R&B record covers from the same decade. Imbibing in this space, where neon lights seem to paint everything in an electric coat of pink, yellow or orange, is so natural. Plan on lingering awhile, whether you’re in the lounge, at the 16-seat bar dotted with Heath Ceramics black and yellow tile, or at one of the five floating tables for two, bathed in candle light.
THE FOOD: Executive chef Amanda Hoang’s (formerly of Bird Dog) food is innovative, precise and beautifully plated. While the focus is on desserts, Viridian’s menu will always feature a few savory bites, like BBQ Pork Steamed Buns ($6) and Salt & Pepper Chicken “Nuggets” ($9). The must-order is a devilishly delicious pull-apart Chili Garlic Milk Bread ($8). It’s topped with garlic and Japanese chili “crisp” and comes with a slab of charred scallion and ginger butter that looks like an emerald. You’ll be slathering it on every bite.
We tried four desserts and there were two obvious standouts. Eating the Thai Tea Tiramisu ($10), which is made with soaked lady fingers, mascarpone, caramelized condensed milk and crushed peanuts, a huge feeling of nostalgia swept over me. I remembered not only the first time my parents let me order my own Thai iced tea, instead of just allowing a sip of theirs, but also how grown up I felt making my first tiramisu at age 12. It’s a brilliant dessert, conjuring up emotions in the same way that Christinia Tosi’s (Milk Bar) cereal-milk panna cotta does. The Blood Orange & Vanilla Semifreddo ($11) is also a winner. Nestled on pistachio crumbs and laced with cardamom, the elegant dessert is inspired by the Flintstones orange sherbet push-ups of childhood.
THE COCKTAILS: Seasonal and cutting-edge. Bar director Tsui’s Tomato Beef is pure, tasty trickery. It looks like water but tastes exactly like its name. Made with tallow-washed tequila and basil eau-de-vie, the cocktail features fresh tomato juice that has been spun until it runs clear and free of pulp. If you like the idea of a bloody mary but dislike the texture, this sipper is for you. The Golden Triangle is another beauty. Reminiscent of a yellow negroni, the cocktail is made with gin, yellow beets and an amaro made from California flora, including poppies. Cocktails are $13 each.
DON’T MISS: The neon wall sculptures by San Francisco-based artist Laura Stevenson. Staying true to the inspiration for Viridian, Stevenson designed the colorful sculptures by imagining what the view might look like from high up in a towering Hong Kong building. We particularly liked the circular one above the bar. If you look closely, you’ll see that it’s moving inside, evoking the pulse of a city that never sleeps.
DETAILS: Open from 4 p.m. to midnight Monday-Thursday and later Friday-Saturday at 2216 Broadway, Oakland; https://viridianbar.com