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Brooklyn-born Gran Eléctrica meets so many current food and dining trends you’d almost expect to find it on an episode of “Portlandia” instead of on Main Street in downtown Napa.
The Michelin-recognized restaurant, which opened in March inside the former 1313 Main eatery, focuses on upscale Mexican street food, margaritas made with seasonal house-juiced fruits and vegetables, natural wines and artisanal mezcal. Did we mention it started in Brooklyn?
Despite those New York roots, owners Elise Rosenberg, Emelie Kihlstrom and Tamer Hamawi hired an exclusively local team for their Napa project, including Mexican-American chef Ignacio Beltran (formerly of Ad Hoc and the Restaurant at Meadowood) and mixologist Ryan Leija (formerly of Angèle, Morimoto).
We visited on a busy Saturday night. Here’s what’s inside.
THE VIBE: The large, lively dining room and bar are decked out in Mexico’s Day of the Dead decor. Inside, the vibe is bright and open, with skylights and black and white wallpaper featuring drawings of Napa landmarks — the Napa Valley Wine Train, Castello di Amorosa — in the style of political printmaker Jose Guadalupe Posada. Outside, the large garden patio is surrounded by cinder-block walls and a mural of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe by Richmond artist, DJ Agana.
THE FOOD: Beltran’s menu is made up of Botanas ($5-$12), Tacos ($8-$10), Tostadas ($9-$12) and Platos ($12-$20). The food is simple, fresh and made with few ingredients. Guacamole and Chips ($10) is an absolute must, thanks to smoky flavor from, we think, fire-roasted avocado leaves and spiced pepitas.
The carnitas ($9) are also famous here. Llano Seco pork shoulder is braised with onion, cilantro, chile colorado and jalapeño toreado and tucked into tiny, chewy tortillas pressed from housemade masa. Listen closely to the nightly specials; if it’s seafood, order it. You won’t be sorry. Or opt for the Mojo de Ajo ($20) on the regular menu, market fish sauteed in a garlic sauce with chile morita and a side of seasonal greens. Portions are small — and you won’t want to share your entree.
DON’T MISS: Creative cocktails, including a Margarita de Granada, made with mint and pomegranate juice ($13), or the Negra Negroni ($14), featuring mezcal and activated charcoal.
DETAILS: Dinner from 5 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday and brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sundays at 1313 Main St., Napa; www.granelectrica.com