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Samir Mogannam’s Arab comfort food exploded on the San Francisco dining scene in 2019, when the 29-year-old chef transformed his family’s flailing burger joints into critically-acclaimed counter-service restaurants that landed on every best restaurant list.
The third Beit Rima, which recently opened in Mogannam’s native Daly City and made our list of 2020’s Most Anticipated Restaurants, is the first outside of San Francisco. It offers the same craveworthy menu of Palestinian-Jordanian dishes, with a bigger dining room and full bar. Middle Eastern-themed craft cocktails — courtesy of Nicholas Torres’ True Laurel — are coming soon.
Beit Rima is an homage to his mom, Rima, and her home cooking, but the food is all Mogannam. Before opening Beit Rima, the young chef honed his skills at several Bay Area restaurants, including Aziza and Dyafa. In a short time, he has established himself as one of the drivers of the Palestinian cuisine movement. Next month, Mogannam will cook alongside Aaron London of Michelin-starred Al’s Place and Daniela Vergara of Michael Mina’s Trailblazer Tavern at the James Beard Foundation’s Taste America event in San Francisco. Get your tickets here.
Until then, here’s our experience during a quiet weekday lunch in Daly City:
THE VIBE: Homey, like you’re in Rima’s dining room — think gingham tablecloths and vintage plates etched with flowers. Plants and Middle Eastern artifacts are here and there, and Arab-themed pop art similar to the pieces found in the San Francisco locations are coming soon.
THE FOOD: The menu features Mezze ($7-$12), like baba ganoush and baked halloumi with jalapeno, and as well as six Proteins ($18-$28), including a la carte falafel for just $1, and Things To Dip With ($5-$6), namely a warm, fresh-baked oblong pita bread studded with caraway, nigella, thyme and zaa’tar.
Order at least one for the Mezze Sampler ($18), which is a must. You get four dips, a few falafel, pickles and the most colorful, mouthwatering image for your ‘Gram. All the dips are good, but the slightly sweet muhammara was our fave. Grilled Hangar Steak ($26) — the only meat on the menu that is not halal — is another solid offering, and great for sharing. Slices of medium rare steak are plated in a curve alongside smoked freekah and a tangy, addictive green zhug.
Overall, Mogannam successfully strikes a balance between homespun dishes you expect — shish kabob with “Mom’s rice” — and his own modern takes, like a whole fried branzino dredged in spiced semolina. Here’s hoping a fourth Beit Rima hits the East or South bay next.
DON’T MISS: The utterly sinful Delicata Squash ($8). Slices of squash are coated in dukkah and served on honeyed-brown-butter lebna with pine nuts. Is it a veggie? Is it dessert? Is it dip? It’s everything. And with spring coming, it won’t be on the menu for long.
PERFECT FOR: Kabobs with the crew; shakshuka brunch; dinner with the kiddos; pre- or post-shopping lunch; dips and drinks, with forthcoming cocktails from a True Laurel mixologist.
DETAILS: Open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 to 9 p.m. Wednesday-Monday at 507 Westlake Center, Daly City; www.beitrimasf.com
