It’s not much to look at: A rectangle of wobbly white stuff. And to be honest, there’s not a lot yummy about plain, unadulterated tofu. But dunk it in marinade, roll it in into a frying pan or drop it in soup and tofu becomes something delicious, nutritious and satisfying.
While silken tofu is most popular in Asia, here in the U.S., firm tofu dominates. Unlike softer versions, firm tofu is a great plant-based stand-in for animal proteins. It can be marinated, braised, deep fried, or grilled. It’s great crumbled into sauces, stuffed into tacos or simply spiced, seared and served on a bun.
Tofu, also known as bean curd, is made from soy beans that are soaked, pulverized, cooked, then coagulated and pressed into firm blocks of protein. The result is a protein-packed, calcium-rich, plant-based food that is low in fat and loaded with heart-friendly isoflavones.
Even though tofu is made with the same basic ingredients, the variation in taste and texture is surprising. Great tofu is made with super-rich, creamy milk made from whole soybeans, including the hull. The process of turning soy milk into tofu requires coagulants, but thicker milk requires fewer of them — and coagulants can compromise taste. The three common agents are calcium sulfate, magnesium chloride and glucono delta lactone; the latter is commonly used in soft and silken tofu.
Great tofu tends to be more tan than white, and is dense, not spongy. The best have the clean, fresh flavor of soy, a touch of nuttiness, creamy texture and a sweet, buttery finish. The worst are chalky, acrid, rubbery and even bitter.
Avoiding bad tofu is fairly easy. Freshness is key, so make sure you get the newest tofu on the shelf. Look for tofu that’s higher in fat and protein, both indicators of higher quality milk. As a side note, it turns out that the American palate for taste-free tofu is a huge reason for the undesirable blocks so many stores carry: The process of removing the natural beans flavor comes at a chalky, acrid cost.
Tofu newbies should know tofu is perishable; refrigerated, it can last for five to seven days, as it is stored in fresh cold water that is changed daily. Unlike animal proteins, tofu loses much when frozen. No matter the type, it all turns crumbly when defrosted.
We taste-tested all the firm tofu we could find at local grocers. A handful of those labels are actually made by two major producers of firm tofu —Korea-based Pulmuone and Japan’s House — but the products are not identical.
Here’s the scoop on the best tofu — and the bland, chalky chunks not worth eating. Nutrition details correspond to a 3-ounce serving, roughly 2/3 cup of tofu.
Hodo Firm Tofu
Made in small batches by Minh Tsai’s Oakland company, this ultra-firm, pressed tofu has such clean, pleasant soy flavor, with a nutty, sweet, pea-like finish, that it tastes great straight up. It’s good enough to toss into salad or sub for paneer in curry. 120 calories, 4.5 g fat, no sodium, 14 g protein. $3.99 at Whole Foods, 99 Ranch and Safeway, when in stock. (4 stars)
Trader Joe San Organic Firm Tofu
Bold soybean flavor and nice texture make this earthy tofu a top pick.That it’s also inexpensive and easy to find makes it an all-around win. 4 g fat, 15 mg sodium, 8 g protein. $1.79 for 14 ounces. (3½ stars)
Sunrise Medium Firm Tofu
The sweet note in this bean-forward tofu from Canada stands out. It’s dense, chewy and just so tasty. 70 calories, 4 g fat, no sodium, 8 g protein. $1.49 for 16 ounces at Safeway, Whole Foods and Marina Market. (3½ stars)
365 Organic Firm Tofu
The flavor of fresh edamame permeates this flavorful block of slightly softer protein. It misses the nutty note, but has a slight butter finish. 70 calories, 3.5 g fat, 10 mg sodium, 8 g protein. $1.99 for 14 ounces at Whole Foods. (3½ stars)
Trader Joe’s Organic Sprouted High Protein Tofu
A protein powerhouse, this big hunk is slightly crumbly and bland, but it tastes clean. This is blank-slate tofu at its best. 90 g has 140 calories, 8 g fat, 15 mg sodium, 15 g protein. $2.49 for 1 pound. (3 stars)
Wildwood Organic Extra Firm Tofu
Made by Pulmuone, this tofu has more flavor than many inexpensive versions, but with an astringent aftertaste. 90 calories, 5 g fat, 15 mg sodium, 9 g protein. $2.29 for 14 ounces at Sprouts. (2½ stars)
O Organics Cubed Extra Firm Tofu
The ridiculously uneven rectangles of tofu in this tub are spongy and bland, but the flavor is clean. 100 calories, 5 g fat, 15 mg sodium, 11 g protein. 99 cents for 14 ounces at Safeway. (2 stars)
Pulmuone Organic Tofu
No color, no flavor — this spongy pick is like a tub of nothingness. On the upside, it doesn’t attack your tongue with off-flavors. 80 calories, 5 g fat, 20 mg sodium, 8 g protein. $1.59 for 15.5 ounces at 99 Ranch. (2 stars)
Sprouts Organic Firm Tofu
Soft texture and astringency that leans toward bitterness makes this a less desirable choice. 80 calories, 4.5 g fat, 20 mg sodium, 8 g protein. $1.79 for 14 ounces. (2 stars)
Wo Chong Firm Tofu
Picky eaters who prefer bland food might love this brand. It’s the ultimate taste-free food. 90 calories, 3 g fat, 10 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $1.19 for 14 ounces at 99 Ranch. (1½ stars)
House Foods Organic Firm Tofu
The soft but firm texture of this inexpensive tofu is pleasant, but the aftertaste is unfortunate. You might try burying this in big-flavor dishes. 70 calories, 4 g fat, 10 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $5.69 for 4 14-ounce packs at Costco; $1.99 for 14 ounces at Walmart. (1½ stars)
AFC Hard Tofu
These ultra-white cubes — four pieces to a box — are chalky with a bitter note. 80 calories, 4.5 g fat, 13 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $2.19 for 19 ounces at 99 Ranch. (1 star)
Azumaya Firm Tofu
This ubiquitous brand is one reason so many people hate tofu. It’s chalky and unpleasantly acidic. Note that this is made by Nasoya, which was acquired by Pulmuone. 60 calories, 3.5 g fat, 15 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $1.99 for 14 ounces at Walmart. (½ a star)
Nasoya Extra Firm Tofu
Thanks for using non-GMO soybeans, but could you cut back on the chemicals? There’s nothing good to say about this chalky block. 70 calories, 4 g fat, 15 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $2.49 for 2 15.5-ounce packages at Safeway. (No stars)
Golden Gate Firm Tofu
Rubbery and flavorless are bad enough, but this tofu actually leaves an acrid film on the tongue. 40 calories, 2 g fat, no sodium, 4 g protein. 99 cents for 14 ounces at Marina Market. (No stars)
Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.
