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Some exciting food and drink developments are happening in this laid-back beach community. The most recent opening is Alderwood in downtown Santa Cruz, which has been packed ever since it opened at the end of December. Here’s what it’s like inside.
THE VIBE: The luxe and inviting circular space offers wood tones, soft lighting, dramatic sconces and elegant pops of blue, with a bar on one side, an open kitchen with chef’s counter seating at the front, and booths, banquettes and tables in the center.
THE FOOD: The seasonal menu, housed in a small soft leather binder, is like a pretty little book with watercolor-inspired lettering and illustrations of ingredients, such as shiso leaves and porcini mushrooms. Inside, you’ll find classic cocktails ($10) and bar snacks — Sourdough Onion Rings ($9), for example, with Aleppo chile and Russian dressing that come stacked like a delicious crunchy tower, an Alderwood Cheeseburger ($12) and a Vegan Tartare ($15) that features chopped smoked beets that have been slightly dehydrated and then rehydrated to create a somewhat meaty texture.
The vegan dish was recommended by executive chef Jeffrey Wall (Atlanta’s Kimball House, Denver’s Hearth & Dram), despite standing before a gleaming double-wide fridge of dry-aged steaks. The menu is undoubtedly steak-centric: A 14-ounce, 60-day-aged rib eye ($70), a 6-ounce heart of rib eye ($38) and a giant porterhouse ($150, serves three) are among more than a dozen options. But there are plenty of flavorful options for vegans and vegetarians to enjoy, as well. Try the Ricotta Triangoli and Smoked Beets entree ($25) or the astounding Roasted Hen of the Woods mushrooms side ($15), served over celery root puree with ice wine vinegar and nasturtium leaves.
If you’re going the steak route, though, make sure you order one of the sauces ($7 each), such as Wall’s 24-hour Bordelaise, a recipe kept secret even from staff.
Raw bar fan? You’ll find West and East Coast oysters ($1.65 to $3.75), as well as Hawaiian Kampachi Crudo ($16). Or go luxe with the Osetra Caviar ($120 for 30 grams) served with creme fraiche, toast and chives. The Plateaux option ($28-$58) lets you mix and match from the raw bar menu.
DON’T MISS: The amazing Beer-Battered Dungeness Crab appetizer ($17) arrives as a big, enticing ball served atop fried shoestring potatoes with tartar sauce. The steaks are divine and the oysters impeccably fresh. And those oysters are a buck each during happy hour, which runs from 4 to 6:30 p.m. daily. Save room for dessert, especially the stunning Yuzu Macaron ($10).
GOOD TO KNOW: This place is busy. Make reservations — and you may want to leave the little ones at home.
PERFECT FOR… With a menu of indulgent, shareable gems, Alderwood is perfect for date night. First date? Date night for foodies? Go for the chef’s counter, where the kitchen action makes a perfect conversation starter.
DETAILS: Open from 4 p.m. to midnight Tuesday through Sunday at 155 Walnut Ave., Santa Cruz; www.alderwoodsantacruz.com.
