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After selling his beloved Zare at the Fly Trap in 2016, San Francisco chef Hoss Zare has brought his talents, including his expert use of Middle Eastern ingredients and techniques, to the East Bay as consulting chef at Danville’s newest fine dining bistro, Albatross.
But Albatross isn’t a Middle Eastern restaurant. Under the direction of CEO Mehrasa Bagheri (partner at San Ramon’s Primavera Ristorante), Zare and executive chef Brian Bowen (formerly of Cavallo Point in Sausalito) are crafting fresh, elegant fare with global influences.
THE VIBE: Albatross is a beautiful modern restaurant, with an expansive dining room, large, windows, high ceilings and a semi-open kitchen where you’ll spot Bowen and Zare hunched over, plating like the artists they are. It’s also casually elegant, with plenty of greenery and leather chairs. Even though the staff is welcoming of children, the menu, large bar and quiet scene have a decidedly grown-up feeling. Leave the kiddos at home for this one.
THE FOOD: The farm-to-table menu is divided into small ($8-$24) and large ($26-$38) plates, with an emphasis on local produce, sustainable proteins and those creative, global touches. Braised Spanish Octopus ($24) is elevated with black lime, also known as dried lime in Persian cooking, and served alongside baby potatoes smashed with ‘nduja, a spreadable, spicy Italian salumi.
From the large plates, a grain-finished Flannery Hanger Steak ($34) served medium rare with crispy Brussels sprouts gets a kick from tamarind-braised Cipollini onions, a smear of spiced squash puree and the tastiest creamy wild rice. And the ever-trendy Big Eye Tuna Crudo ($15), while beautifully plated and full of briny bits of sea grapes and trout roe, lacked acid on our visit. We couldn’t detect the blood orange kosho listed in the description.
DON’T MISS: The wine list and cocktail program. Bar director Reza Esmaili offers a unique list of wines by the bottle from Morocco, Lebanon and Greece, in addition to top-notch producers from France, Italy and the Napa Valley. We loved the refreshing, gin-based Minted Memory cocktail ($12) made with house-made sekanjabin or Persian mint vinegar syrup.
PERFECT FOR…Date night, dinner with friends, showing off the Tri-Valley’s growing food scene.
DETAILS: Open from 5 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday at 312 Railroad Ave., Danville; www.albatrossdanville.com
